Resting properly and taking breaks has been shown improve dramatically improve our performance. How long do you rest between attempts? How to rest during your climbing session.
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Until now climbers have just gone climbing to get better at climbing. In many cases the benefits of pull up routines hanging on door frames and sit ups while watching tv were shared around the climbing community. A kind of haphazard hearsay approach to coaching. In many cases it worked, something worked. Improvements were made and harder climbs were ascended. It is now not uncommon for climbing coaches to have their own coach. Yes, coaches coaching coaches!!! Ben Moon has a coach, Adam Ondra has a coach, even the free spirited Chris Sharma has a coach. I took some time to find out why...